The majority of visitors to the most northerly of the Ionian islands, Corfu, are seeking to the beaches and the turquoise sea. The capitol of the island is much neglected. I have been told that the town of Corfu is one of the loveliest towns in Greece.
The Venetians took command in 1386 and stayed until 1797. This period that lasted for more than 400 years, gave the Venetians time to influence the towns architecture. Still, the Greek population seemed to remain immune against the influence of the Italian language and the catholic church. In 1797 the French occupied the Island of Corfu and continued to do so until 1815, only interrupted once by the Russo-turkish fleet.
As a result of Napoleons misfortunes in war with Britain, the French lost Corfu to Great Britain, which kept it as a Protectorate until 1864, when it finally was united with rest of Greece. The town offers a fascinating blend of Venetian, French, British and Greek architecture. This is a legacy of all the previous rulers of the island. Most noticeable of all, the architecture style of the town is Venetian.
Kérkiras old part of the town is enchanting to wander around in. The old part which is sandwiched between two forts, offers a magnificent maze of stairs, narrow arcaded streets and lanes. In some places there is hardly any room for two people walking next to each other. Above, the view of the sky is limited by clothes hanging to dry between the buildings. A lot of the houses are still fitted with ornamented wrought-iron balconies.
The part of town closest to “old fortress” is divided from the park and Paleó Froúrio (old fortress) by the Spinádha (esplenade). In this part of the old town you find the well-known Listón built during the French period, where there are plentiful of cafés and restaurants, makes this a convivial meeting place. One of the more obvious British legacies are found in the park, where the Corfiots play cricket most Sundays. The field is also used for local amateur football games during the afternoons.
On the street that cuts through the park towards the fortress, you can pick up hoarse-taxis for a pleasant tour around the town. In the part of town closest to the Spinádha the streets are filled with souvenir-shops and expensive boutiques, mixed with cafés and restaurants. If you are looking for more down to earth Greek taverns, souvlaki grills, or a place to pick up your picnic-lunch, you have to head for the Jewish quarters. Here you may find cozy little taverns in blind alleys. Bakery’s offer a nice scent of freshly baked bread and fruit-shops that spread out on to the street.
Kèrkira desires to be explored. It’s beauty is fascinating, its secrets are breathtaking and it is Greece at its best.
To read Arnold Weisz’s articles about travel, scuba diving and food, see Water Ventures
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